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        <title>FM Transmitter</title>
        <description> 





Small Radio Transmitter
=======================


DESCRIPTION
-----------

This ZIP file contains information about building a small radio
transmitter, which has a PCB 1.75&amp;quot; x 2.5&amp;quot; (45mm x 68 mm) and 
has a range of about 30 yards or so. The documentation with 
the circuit says the freq range is 100-108 MHz, but I have found 
it to be more like 85-100 MHz.

The circuit is (of course) only mono, and accepts an audio input
from either a microphone or other source. The input impedance is
1Mohm. The input sensitivity is 5mV and the max input signal is
10mV. The transmitted signal can be picked up on a FM radio. The
circuit can be used for short-range transmission, eg. for wireless
microphones.

The actual circuit comes from a 'Kit', available from Veleman
electronics (USA distributor is Tapto Corp., PO Box 1339, 
CLAREMONT NH-03743-US. UK distributor is High-Q Electronics, 
382 Edgware Road, London, W2 1EB). The kit number is K1771. 
It is a very good transmitter.

I bought the kit, and made the circuit, which worked very well. I
wanted two transmitters, so I made my own 'copy' PCB and built the
circuit, and in fact my home-made version seems to work better than
the original!! So there is no need to buy the kit really, as it is
quite a simple circuit, and is the best 'home-made' transmitter I
have seen.

- CIRCUIT.GIF is the circuit diagram.

- PCBPLAN.GIF shows the PCB layout from above (components shown). 
PCBPLAN.GIF is an accurate layout, scanned from the instruction
sheet. I have used * to mark one corner for reference.

- TRACKS.GIF shows the track layout on the soldering side of the
board. This is NOT a very accurate layout. This is because I didn't
actually have a plan of the track layout. To get TRACKS.GIF, I put a
bit of OHP film onto the bottom of the PCB, and traced the tracks
with an OHP pen. I then scanned this in. I have marked the component
leg holes (approximately) with white blobs. 


CONSTRUCTION
------------

Start off by scaling PCBPLAN.GIF and TRACKS.GIF by the same
amount so that they measure approximately the correct size
(1.75&amp;quot; x 2.5&amp;quot;) when printed out.

Then make your PCB. As mentioned earlier, PCBPLAN.GIF gives the
accurate positioning of the holes, whereas TRACKS.GIF gives the
positions only approximately. So use PCBPLAN when drilling the 
holes in your PCB board. Then draw on the tracks, using TRACKS.GIF
as a guide. The important thing is to make sure you draw the 
'printed coil' correctly on the PCB - those lines are there for
a reason!

Then solder in all the parts. Here is the parts list:

D1 Varicap diode (eg. BB119)
D2 1N4148
R1 100K
R2 220K
R3 22R
R4 1K trimmer
R5 1K
R6 56K
R7 1M
R8 1K2
C1 5pF ceramic
C2 6pF ceramic
C3 15pF ceramic
C4 trimmer cap
C5 15pF ceramic
C6 1nF ceramic
C7 100uF electrolytic
C8 4.7uF electrolytic
C9 100pF ceramic
T1 BF244A or BF245A FET
T2 2N3819 FET
T3 BC307/8/9 or BC557/8/9 PNP

Bear in mind that in addition to the components, there is a jumper wire
which needs to be fitted (marked with a dashed line in PCBPLAN.GIF).

The power supply to use is 9-14 V DC, one of the little rectangular
9V batteries is fine. Connect this to the + and - points on the PCB. 
The sound input goes to the points marked &amp;quot;MIKE&amp;quot;.
The antenna should be connected to the point marked &amp;quot;ANT&amp;quot;. The 
emitter's output impedance is 50 ohms. You can make your own fancy
antenna if you like, but I have found that a foot or so of wire is
fine.

Good luck with the transmitter. If you have any improvements to the
circuit, I would be glad to hear from you.

--Dan Evans.
(email address: mailto:dan.evans@sjc.ox.ac.uk).
(WWW page: [sable.ox.ac.uk]).

5 April 1995.</description>
        <link>http://www.reconnsworld.com/forum/read.php?18,44,44#msg-44</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sat, 18 May 2013 12:56:29 -0400</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.9a</generator>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.reconnsworld.com/forum/read.php?18,44,44#msg-44</guid>
            <title>FM Transmitter</title>
            <link>http://www.reconnsworld.com/forum/read.php?18,44,44#msg-44</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <img src="http://www.reconnsworld.com/transmit/radio/DanEvans_CIRCUIT.GIF" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.reconnsworld.com/transmit/radio/DanEvans_PCBPLAN.GIF" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://www.reconnsworld.com/transmit/radio/DanEvans_TRACK.GIF" class="bbcode" border="0" /><br />
<br />
Small Radio Transmitter<br />
=======================<br />
<br />
<br />
DESCRIPTION<br />
-----------<br />
<br />
This ZIP file contains information about building a small radio<br />
transmitter, which has a PCB 1.75&quot; x 2.5&quot; (45mm x 68 mm) and <br />
has a range of about 30 yards or so. The documentation with <br />
the circuit says the freq range is 100-108 MHz, but I have found <br />
it to be more like 85-100 MHz.<br />
<br />
The circuit is (of course) only mono, and accepts an audio input<br />
from either a microphone or other source. The input impedance is<br />
1Mohm. The input sensitivity is 5mV and the max input signal is<br />
10mV. The transmitted signal can be picked up on a FM radio. The<br />
circuit can be used for short-range transmission, eg. for wireless<br />
microphones.<br />
<br />
The actual circuit comes from a 'Kit', available from Veleman<br />
electronics (USA distributor is Tapto Corp., PO Box 1339, <br />
CLAREMONT NH-03743-US. UK distributor is High-Q Electronics, <br />
382 Edgware Road, London, W2 1EB). The kit number is K1771. <br />
It is a very good transmitter.<br />
<br />
I bought the kit, and made the circuit, which worked very well. I<br />
wanted two transmitters, so I made my own 'copy' PCB and built the<br />
circuit, and in fact my home-made version seems to work better than<br />
the original!! So there is no need to buy the kit really, as it is<br />
quite a simple circuit, and is the best 'home-made' transmitter I<br />
have seen.<br />
<br />
- CIRCUIT.GIF is the circuit diagram.<br />
<br />
- PCBPLAN.GIF shows the PCB layout from above (components shown). <br />
PCBPLAN.GIF is an accurate layout, scanned from the instruction<br />
sheet. I have used * to mark one corner for reference.<br />
<br />
- TRACKS.GIF shows the track layout on the soldering side of the<br />
board. This is NOT a very accurate layout. This is because I didn't<br />
actually have a plan of the track layout. To get TRACKS.GIF, I put a<br />
bit of OHP film onto the bottom of the PCB, and traced the tracks<br />
with an OHP pen. I then scanned this in. I have marked the component<br />
leg holes (approximately) with white blobs. <br />
<br />
<br />
CONSTRUCTION<br />
------------<br />
<br />
Start off by scaling PCBPLAN.GIF and TRACKS.GIF by the same<br />
amount so that they measure approximately the correct size<br />
(1.75&quot; x 2.5&quot;) when printed out.<br />
<br />
Then make your PCB. As mentioned earlier, PCBPLAN.GIF gives the<br />
accurate positioning of the holes, whereas TRACKS.GIF gives the<br />
positions only approximately. So use PCBPLAN when drilling the <br />
holes in your PCB board. Then draw on the tracks, using TRACKS.GIF<br />
as a guide. The important thing is to make sure you draw the <br />
'printed coil' correctly on the PCB - those lines are there for<br />
a reason!<br />
<br />
Then solder in all the parts. Here is the parts list:<br />
<br />
D1 Varicap diode (eg. BB119)<br />
D2 1N4148<br />
R1 100K<br />
R2 220K<br />
R3 22R<br />
R4 1K trimmer<br />
R5 1K<br />
R6 56K<br />
R7 1M<br />
R8 1K2<br />
C1 5pF ceramic<br />
C2 6pF ceramic<br />
C3 15pF ceramic<br />
C4 trimmer cap<br />
C5 15pF ceramic<br />
C6 1nF ceramic<br />
C7 100uF electrolytic<br />
C8 4.7uF electrolytic<br />
C9 100pF ceramic<br />
T1 BF244A or BF245A FET<br />
T2 2N3819 FET<br />
T3 BC307/8/9 or BC557/8/9 PNP<br />
<br />
Bear in mind that in addition to the components, there is a jumper wire<br />
which needs to be fitted (marked with a dashed line in PCBPLAN.GIF).<br />
<br />
The power supply to use is 9-14 V DC, one of the little rectangular<br />
9V batteries is fine. Connect this to the + and - points on the PCB. <br />
The sound input goes to the points marked &quot;MIKE&quot;.<br />
The antenna should be connected to the point marked &quot;ANT&quot;. The <br />
emitter's output impedance is 50 ohms. You can make your own fancy<br />
antenna if you like, but I have found that a foot or so of wire is<br />
fine.<br />
<br />
Good luck with the transmitter. If you have any improvements to the<br />
circuit, I would be glad to hear from you.<br />
<br />
--Dan Evans.<br />
(email address: mailto:dan.evans@sjc.ox.ac.uk).<br />
(WWW page: [<a href="http://sable.ox.ac.uk/~sjoh0014/web/dan.html" rel="nofollow" >sable.ox.ac.uk</a>]).<br />
<br />
5 April 1995.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>andrew</dc:creator>
            <category>Radio</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 27 Jun 2003 12:37:25 -0400</pubDate>
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